Leaving Berlin

Leaving Berlin

Last day in this city of monuments, old and new architecture, troubled history and full of vibrant young people.  For the first time, Susan and I split the tour. She goes to her mother’s old neighborhood. I explore a remnant of the cold war, the underground fallout shelters. Susan does not do underground, so I go alone. I do not do shopping, so she goes alone.

 A short cab ride from the hotel is the Unterwelten Underground tour. The Germans started the underground shelter system in 1943 when the US 8^th Army Air Corps was performing daily urban renewal on the city. The reinforced concrete rooms were built adjacent to the subway. While not perfect, they did provide some blast protection if not a direct hit. Unfortunately no photos allowed so I’ll describe it best I can.

When nuclear warfare became a possibility during the Cold War, the blast protection of the underground was nonexistent. But, the Germans figured Berlin was safe from nuclear blast because so many Allied troops were in West Berlin. However, if nukes hit to the east or west, winds would blow radioactive dust over the city. So, the underground shelters became fallout shelters.

The shelters are part of the subway tunnel system and are sealed by hydraulic doors. Each shelter has a person limit. They were to be filled on first come first served basis. All told, the shelters had room for 15,000 in a city of 3 million. They had an air filtration system, enough food and water for 2 weeks and no showers. Toilets were buckets with chemicals.  The theory was to stay underground for 2 weeks and come up and see what was left. Of course, they were never used, but look like they could be used today if needed.

The tour group seemed to enjoy my recount of nuclear defense in the US in the 50s when we were trained to “Duck and Cover”. We crawled under our desks and kneeled with our butts in the air, hands over the backs of our necks.  Our technique would have been equally as effective as the Germans, just a lot less expensive. In our school, we called “Duck and Cover” “Bend over and kiss your ass goodbye”.

German small talk

When I was paying at a cashier station I said, “How are you today?” The clerk gave me a startled look, muttered something while avoiding eye contact as she gave my change. Yoav, our guide, observed this and told Susan my friendliness was not normal German behavior. With that information, I made it my practice to ask every service person “How are you? How about this weather? I like your necklace” or other triviality. All this while smiling at them with direct eye contact. Some blushed, some tittered. I suspect a hives breakout in one case. This international travel is fun if you handle it correctly.

Final thoughts

This trip has been interesting. I was prepared to be patronized by our Austrian hosts. They did not. They were open, forthright and sincere. Well done Austria.

My first trip to Berlin. This complicated city is making the most of their recovery from their self inflicted wounds from WWII and the Cold War. The citizens are young, busy and seem to be happily pursuing the best life possible. Still, the city is not warm. It is sterile. Maybe that is the German way?

We have enjoyed our visit in Austria, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and Germany. However, we are extremely happy and lucky to be born in the best spot on the planet. Back to DFW tomorrow. Glad to be headed home.